COUSCOUS TRADITIONAL MOROCCAN : A CULINARY JOURNEY TO MOROCCO

 

As I was flipping through the pages of ¡Cuba! – Recipes and stories from the Cuban Kitchen, I couldn't help but be struck by my fondness for black bean soup. On the surface, it might seem like a simple dish, just a dark bowl of beans, lacking in excitement. Perhaps that's why it had slipped from my regular repertoire. Moreover, finding black beans in France isn't as straightforward as one might hope. While France boasts a delightful array of beans like haricots Tarbais, flageolets, and haricots de Soissons, the culinary traditions that typically utilize black beans don't align closely with French cuisine, resulting in their scarcity.

Black beans possess an exceptional depth of flavor, surpassing many other beans, and they eagerly mingle with ingredients that bring a burst of excitement, such as peppers, tomatoes, cilantro, and tangy sour cream. They're a treasure worth hunting for, which is why I was overjoyed when, during a book tour, a kind soul gifted me a bag of Rancho Gordo black beans. (A heartfelt thank you to that generous woman!) Upon returning home, I couldn't wait to put them to use. I've been yearning for a reason to indulge in this soup, a personal favorite of mine, and here it was – the perfect opportunity.

My initial encounter with black bean soup was during my time at a vegetarian restaurant. It was exceptional – truly outstanding – and boasted a surprising addition of chopped green olives. Legend has it that a Cuban diner, after tasting the soup, paused thoughtfully before suggesting that olives would elevate it even further. And so, they became an integral part of the recipe.

The notion of adding olives to black bean soup wouldn't have crossed my mind, but it's a revelation. Those little bits of olive infuse the dark beans with a salty kick, creating a delightful harmony that I simply adore.

While I'm not particularly fond of green peppers, I recognize their significance in the soup's flavor profile. So, in the spirit of compromise, I decided to incorporate one green pepper alongside one orange bell pepper, striking a balance that satisfied both the recipe's requirements and my personal preferences.

For those who enjoy a hands-on approach in the kitchen, I'm delighted to share that I ground cumin seeds sourced from a friend's garden in the south of France. Additionally, I harvested oregano from dried branches generously sent by another friend. With such thoughtful contributions from my friends – beans, spices, and herbs – I jest that all I need now is someone who grows and cures their own olives, and my culinary arsenal would be complete.

It's a common misconception that chili peppers don't align with French cuisine, but that's not entirely accurate. Take, for instance, the delightful Espelette peppers from the Basque region. While fresh ones might not be commonly found, they're often available dried or in powdered form. However, if by chance anyone spots fresh Espelette peppers in Paris, please do inform me – I'll be there in a heartbeat!

When I explore the diverse neighborhoods like Belleville and La Chapelle, I often stumble upon fresh chilies with distinct characteristics. Some are short, wrinkled, and pack a fiery punch (vendors typically advise against them), while others are elongated and twisted, labeled as either "doux" or "fort" – meaning mild or strong.

Their definition of "strong" heat may differ from mine, but for this soup, a medium-range chili hits the sweet spot. You want a hint of spice without overshadowing the rich flavor of the beans. However, feel free to tailor it to your taste preferences. Regardless of your choice, a generous dollop of cream is always a welcomed and encouraged addition.

 HOW I PREPARE Black Bean Soup : 

From the culinary treasures of ¡Cuba! and the cozy comfort of the Cabbagetown Café Cookbook comes a hearty recipe perfect for eight servings. Whether you choose to pit your own green olives or opt for the convenience of Spanish-style ones stuffed with pimentos, this black bean soup promises rich flavors with a hint of spice.

Ingredients:

• - 2 cups (450g, 1 pound) dried black beans
• - 2 bay leaves
• - 9 cups (2.15l) water
• - 2 bell peppers (1 split in half, 1 diced)
• - 2 medium onions (1 split in half, 1 diced)
• - 2 teaspoons salt (divided)
• - 2 tablespoons olive oil
• - Freshly ground black pepper
• - 1-2 chiles (e.g., jalapenos, seeded and diced)
• - 4 cloves garlic, minced
• - 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
• - 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• - 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
• - 2/3 cup (95g) chopped pitted green olives

Instructions:

1. In a large pot, soak the black beans overnight with water and bay leaves.

2. The next day, add the halved pepper and onion to the pot. Bring to a boil, then simmer until beans are tender, about 1 hour, adding 1 teaspoon of salt midway.

3. In a skillet, heat olive oil. Cook diced pepper and onion until wilted, then add garlic, chiles, cumin, and oregano. Cook until aromatic, then add a splash of water and set aside.

4. Once beans are cooked, remove halved onion, pepper, and bay leaves. Puree them with some beans and liquid.

5. Return puree to the pot, add red wine vinegar, olives, and cooked vegetables. Simmer for 15-20 minutes, adjusting seasoning if needed.

Notes:

- Serve with a dollop of crema or sour cream, optionally mixed with fresh lime juice.

- Garnish with chopped cilantro, crumbled cotija cheese, diced avocado, or pickled onions.

- Refrigerate leftovers for 3-4 days; thin out with water or stock when reheating if needed. Enjoy the soup's enhanced flavors on the second day as it thickens up.

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