I recently stumbled upon an intriguing twist on Fattoush salad featuring a buttermilk dressing, courtesy of Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley's "Falastin: A Cookbook." This cookbook beautifully delves into Palestinian cuisine, offering not only recipes but also insights into its rich history and culture. When I first laid eyes on it, I knew it was destined to be one of my top culinary companions for the year.
Sami Tamimi, one of the authors, had mentioned his intention to modernize Palestinian dishes while still honoring their roots. This updated Fattoush recipe is a testament to that vision. While it may stray from the traditional version his mother made, Sami's enthusiasm for sharing it speaks volumes about its deliciousness.
This salad is a true delight for those who appreciate a plethora of crisp vegetables, abundant fresh herbs, and a zesty dressing with a hint of tangy sumac-spiced onions. As an American, the term "Buttermilk Dressing" might initially evoke thoughts of a thick, creamy concoction typically made with blue cheese and sour cream, lending richness to salads. However, in this rendition, buttermilk adds a subtle tanginess without overwhelming the dish. Instead of drowning the ingredients, it gently coats them, enhancing their flavors.
Interestingly, many are surprised to discover that buttermilk is readily available in French grocery stores, thanks to the Bretons who enjoy it with crêpes and buckwheat galettes. Personally, I also find myself drawn to Middle Eastern food shops, where I often explore aisles stocked with delights like pistachios, sesame seeds, halloumi cheese, bulk olives, flatbreads, and sumac. It's a treasure trove of culinary inspiration.
For those who advocate for keeping discussions strictly about food, it's important to acknowledge that "Falastin" delves into broader social and political issues. The book fearlessly confronts the conflicts and challenges that shape Palestinian culinary culture. In its glossary, alongside pantry staples, you'll find insights into the region's politics, underlining the interconnectedness of food and society.
Much like "Jerusalem," co-authored by Sami Tamimi and Yotam Ottolenghi, "Falastin" doesn't shy away from the complexities and struggles inherent in its narrative. However, as Palestinian cookbook author Reem Kassis aptly observes, Palestinian cuisine deserves recognition beyond its association with conflict. "Falastin" succeeds in highlighting this culinary richness, offering a nuanced perspective that goes beyond the geopolitical landscape.
Fattoush, believed to have originated in Lebanon but embraced across the Middle East, consistently showcases a vibrant array of fresh ingredients. Think juicy tomatoes, crisp radishes, pungent onions, refreshing cucumbers, aromatic mint, and parsley, all mingling with crunchy bits of flatbread. Just before serving, the salad gets a generous drizzle of tangy lemony buttermilk dressing.
But what truly elevates Fattoush is the addition of sumac-infused onions. Raw onion slices marinate in this distinctive seasoning, crafted from dried berries, imparting a tart, tangy flavor profile that's truly unforgettable. Finding sumac is key – seek out fresh, aromatic varieties at Middle Eastern stores or online retailers like the Ottolenghi shop, Kalustyans, Penzeys, or La Boîte in the U.S. Freshness matters; it makes a noticeable difference in the final dish.
With so many enticing recipes in "Falastin," I couldn't resist diving in while ripe tomatoes still graced the season. Don't fret if you can't find top-notch slicing tomatoes; cherry tomatoes make a worthy substitute. As I eagerly explore the book, I've already earmarked several dishes for future culinary adventures.
Among them are Sticky Date and Halvah Puddings with Tahini Caramel and Sweet Tahini Rolls from the baking chapter, promising indulgent delights. On the savory front, Roast Squash and Zucchini with Whipped Feta and Pistachios, Shatta (a fresh chili sauce), Shush barak (meat dumplings with yogurt sauce), and the tantalizing Chicken musakhan, featuring golden-brown chicken roasted with cumin, sumac, and allspice, have all caught my eye.
Heartfelt congratulations to Sami and Tara, our gracious hosts and guides, for curating a collection of stories and recipes that offer a deeper insight into Palestinian cuisine. Their dedication shines through, inviting readers on a culinary journey that celebrates the rich tapestry of Palestinian flavors and traditions.
TRY Buttermilk Fattoush IN OTHER WAY :
- - 1 medium onion, thinly sliced
- - 1 tablespoon olive oil (plus more if needed)
- - 1 1/2 teaspoons sumac
- - 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
- - 3 small Persian cucumbers, diced (about 1/2 inch)
- - A pinch of salt for the cucumbers
- - 3 large tomatoes, diced
- - 12 radishes, thinly sliced
- - 1 cup fresh mint leaves, coarsely chopped
- - 1 cup flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
- - 2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped
- - 2 large toasted flatbreads (like pita), crumbled
- - 1 1/4 cups buttermilk
- - 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil (plus extra for serving)
- - 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
- - 2 cloves garlic, minced
- - 2 tablespoons cider or white wine vinegar
- - 1 1/2 teaspoons sumac
- - Freshly ground black pepper