I have a confession to make: I enjoy indulging in a pink drink every now and then, but I'm hesitant to admit that I resort to buying raspberries in the dead of winter. As a cookbook writer with deadlines that often clash with the seasons, I've learned to adapt. If a recipe calls for cherries or blueberries in winter, I'll make do with frozen or, let's say, "fresh" if absolutely necessary. I used to scoff at those who purchased out-of-season fruit or meticulously inspected each piece, until I realized they were fellow recipe developers or food stylists just trying to get the job done.
But let me tell you about the Clover Club cocktail I recently crafted. With a hint of raspberry syrup for both color and flavor, it became my winter pick-me-up. Though vacations are currently on hold, each sip transported me to an exotic locale. It felt almost rebellious, and I savored every moment.
Bushberries are now a year-round fixture in both American and French markets. While they suffice, they simply can't compare to the unparalleled freshness of berries plucked straight from the bush. (Out-of-season strawberries, on the other hand, are universally disappointing.) The past year felt endless, and here we are, only in the midst of January. I craved something to provide a much-needed psychological reset.
The Clover Club cocktail, a pre-Prohibition gem, takes its name from the historic Philadelphia club of the same name. While its origins remain a bit mysterious, credit is often given to Julie Reiner, the creative mind behind Brooklyn's beloved Clover Club bar. Her rendition of this classic has been celebrated across various platforms like Imbibe and Punch, each offering its own take on the recipe—proof that the world of mixology is anything but static.
Among the variations, I've found particular delight in Reiner's method, which employs a reverse dry shake technique. Here, the ingredients are first shaken with ice, then strained and shaken once more sans ice to achieve a luxurious frothiness in the egg whites. It's not just a drink; it's an experience—one that's just as enjoyable to craft as it is to savor.
WOULD YOU LIKE A Clover Club cocktail :
If you're hesitant about using raw egg whites, fear not. There's a vegan-friendly alternative: aqua faba, the liquid from cooked chickpeas. While it may not yield as rich or stiff a foam as egg whites, it gets the job done admirably. Simply briskly stir an egg white in a small bowl for a few seconds, then measure it out using a jigger.
Now, onto the technique—enter the reverse dry shake. Typically, egg white-based cocktails undergo a dry shake, where all ingredients are vigorously shaken without ice to establish the foam, followed by another shake with ice before straining into a glass. However, the reverse dry shake method, employed here, is reputed to produce an even better foam, and from my experiments, I concur.
As for the raspberries, feel free to use frozen unsweetened ones as a substitute for fresh ones. In a pinch, you can swap the raspberry syrup for 1/2 ounce of raspberry jam, according to Julie's suggestion. While some recipes propose grenadine as a substitute, I recommend sticking with raspberries for the true essence of the cocktail.
Now, let's mix up a Clover Club:
Ingredients:
- - 1 1/2 ounces gin
- - 1/2 ounce dry vermouth
- - 1/2 ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice
- - 1/2 ounce raspberry syrup (see Note below)
- - 1/2 ounce egg white
Instructions:
- 1. Combine gin, vermouth, lemon juice, raspberry syrup, and egg white in a cocktail shaker filled two-thirds with ice.
- 2. Cover and shake vigorously for 25 seconds.
- 3. Strain the mixture into a glass or small bowl, discard the ice, then return the mixture to the shaker.
- 4. Cover and shake for an additional 15 to 20 seconds.
- 5. Pour into a chilled coupe glass and garnish with skewered raspberries.
Note:
To make raspberry syrup, combine 1/4 cup fresh raspberries with 1/2 cup sugar in a small bowl. Add 1/4 cup warm (not hot) water and let sit for 30 minutes, stirring and mashing occasionally. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve and chill until needed. The syrup will keep for up to a week in the refrigerator or can be frozen for longer storage.
