When you delve into the world of Parisian pastry, the divide between professional techniques and home baking realities becomes evident. Recipes crafted for bustling pastry kitchens, like those taught at Ecole Lênotre, are often designed to yield large quantities of delicate treats like canelés, gâteau Opéra, or éclairs. Imagine scaling down a recipe meant for a hundred canelés to just a few for a home kitchen – it's not just about adjusting measurements, but also about reimagining the entire process.
In a bakery, it's a symphony of production, with separate components being meticulously prepared in advance, from puff pastry to pastry cream, and then assembled over days. Such precision and scale are challenging to replicate in a home setting, where space, equipment, and budget constraints come into play. Copper canelé molds at $35 each? Not the typical home baker's investment!
Moreover, the art of pastry isn't just about following a list of ingredients; it's about mastering techniques like macaronage, the delicate dance of folding macaron batter just right. These skills are honed over time and aren't always easy to convey in a simple recipe.
While professional bakers are often generous with their knowledge, some trade secrets remain closely guarded. After all, their success is built on years of practice, refinement, and yes, a few well-kept tricks. So, while aspiring bakers may not get the full recipe for that perfect éclair, they can still embark on their own delicious journey, experimenting, learning, and perhaps even uncovering a few secrets of their own along the way.
I recently had the pleasure of getting a sneak peek at "French Pastries Made Simple: Foolproof Recipes for Éclairs, Tarts, Macarons and More" by Molly Wilkinson, and I must say, it's quite a gem. Molly, who trained at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris and now shares her expertise through workshops and classes in Versailles, has truly outdone herself in demystifying the art of French pastry for home cooks.
What sets Molly's book apart is its commitment to simplicity without sacrificing authenticity. Take her pâte sucrée recipe, for instance – she confidently dubs it "the only tart dough you'll ever need." It's just one of the many foundational recipes she breaks down for readers. From mastering chocolate ganache to perfecting puff pastry, Molly's book is a treasure trove of essential techniques.
But it's not just about the recipes. Molly's approachable tone and clear instructions make even the most intimidating pastries seem within reach. Whether you're craving a classic tarte au citron or tempted by the indulgence of an Opéra cake, Molly guides you through each step with ease.
And let's not forget the delightful surprises tucked within the pages, like her recipe for charlotte aux fraises – a heavenly concoction of homemade ladyfingers, creamy strawberry mousse, and fresh strawberries. With Molly as your guide, there's no need to feel intimidated. She empowers home bakers of all levels to dive headfirst into the world of French pastry and emerge victorious.
When it comes to flan, there's a bit of cultural and linguistic variation to navigate. Many of us are familiar with the Mexican or Spanish-style flan – a rich, eggy custard baked in a caramel-coated mold, then elegantly flipped onto a plate. But in France, the term "flan" takes on a different form.
In the Breton language, "flan" translates to "far," referring to an open-face custard tart. Meanwhile, what's often referred to as Flan Parisien or Flan Pâtissier is a distinct creation, frequently encased in a buttery crust. However, there's a delightful confusion around its name and preparation methods. When ordering from a bakery, it's best to go with whatever name they've chosen to give it – arguing is rarely fruitful, especially when delicious desserts are at stake.
That said, variations abound. For instance, Christophe Michalak's Flan Pâtissier skips the crust, opting instead to bake the custard in a buttered dish. While this method is equally delightful, there's no denying the allure of a flan with its golden pastry crust – it adds a touch of drama to the dessert that's hard to resist.
In France, vanilla isn't an assumed ingredient in pastries and desserts as it often is in the States. When something is labeled "nature," it means plain, although vanilla is commonly included even if it's not explicitly stated. While vanilla beans are favored over vanilla extract with alcohol, I often add a hint of vanilla extract to my desserts alongside the beans to enrich their flavor. Surprisingly, I've never encountered complaints about desserts being too rich in vanilla – if anything, it seems to only enhance the overall experience.
Flan Parisien isn't just reserved for dessert in France – it's a popular choice for a mid-afternoon snack, known as a goûter. Yes, French folks do snack! This substantial treat is robust and enduring, lasting for several days without losing its appeal. While it's traditionally served in thick slices, we prefer to indulge in thinner slabs for dessert after dinner. Of course, you can savor it however you please – there's no wrong way to enjoy this beloved classic.
Ingredients Parisian Vanilla Flan :
From the pages of Molly Wilkinson's "French Pastries Made Simple" comes a recipe that elevates the essence of vanilla into a delectable dessert experience. Though vanilla beans may be a luxury, their presence truly enhances the flavor. You have the option of using one or two beans, complemented by a touch of vanilla extract or perhaps a suggestion of rum for a twist, courtesy of Romain.
This dessert requires some forethought as it's best prepared the day before serving, allowing ample time for it to cool and set, ensuring perfect slices.
For the Crust:
- - 1 1/2 cups plus 1 tablespoon (210g) flour
- - 2 teaspoons sugar
- - 1/2 teaspoon salt
- - 7 tablespoons (3 1/2 ounces, 100g) unsalted butter, chilled and cubed
- - 1 large egg
- - 2 teaspoons water, plus more if needed
For the Custard:
- - 3 cups (750ml) whole milk
- - 1 3/4 cups (430ml) heavy cream
- - 1-2 whole vanilla beans
- - Pinch of salt
- - 3 large eggs
- - 3 large egg yolks
- - 1 1/4 cups (250g) sugar
- - 3/4 cup (90g) cornstarch
- - 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Instructions:
Crust:
1. In a bowl, combine flour, sugar, and salt. Add cold butter cubes and mix until the mixture resembles large corn kernels.
2. Incorporate egg and water until the dough forms. Shape it into a disk, wrap in plastic, and chill for at least 30 minutes.
3. Roll out the dough into a circle and line a 9-inch springform pan. Freeze while preparing the filling.
Custard:
1. Preheat the oven to 400ºF (200ºC).
2. In a saucepan, warm milk, cream, split vanilla beans (scraping seeds into the mixture), and salt.
3. Whisk eggs, egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch in a separate bowl.
4. Pour half of the warm milk mixture into the egg mixture, whisking vigorously. Combine the mixtures in the saucepan and cook until thickened, stirring constantly.
5. Remove from heat, discard vanilla beans, and stir in vanilla extract.
6. Pour custard into the prepared crust and bake for 10 minutes at 400ºF (200ºC), then reduce heat to 350ºF (180ºC) and bake for an additional 50 minutes.
7. Cool on a wire rack, then refrigerate overnight before serving.
Notes:
- The crust can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to two days.
- The flan can be stored in the refrigerator for 3-4 days after baking.
This dessert promises to delight with its rich vanilla flavor and velvety custard, a true indulgence for any occasion.
