Last spring during my book tour, a delightful lady surprised me with a personally autographed cookbook she believed could have belonged to me. It reminded me of the two cases of cookbooks I sent from the States to Paris when I relocated over a decade ago. Since then, I've been patiently awaiting their arrival. With every knock on my door, I can't help but hope that it's finally the moment when I'll be reunited with my cherished, irreplaceable collection.
However, I must confess, my faith was beginning to wane. I realize I should maintain a buoyant optimism, yet I couldn't help but feel disheartened. Nevertheless, that woman breathed new life into my hopes (much appreciated!) when she presented me with a well-loved, dog-eared copy of "The Taste of Country Cooking" by Edna Lewis.
Meeting Miss Lewis, as she was fondly known, was a true pleasure. Her presence exuded a gentle dignity that was both captivating and serene. She possessed a remarkable soft-spokenness, requiring one to lean in ever so closely to catch her every word. Her beauty was undeniable, with a slender countenance, a distinctive nose, and gracefully cascading silver hair, pulled back neatly as if poised for culinary endeavors. Renowned cookbook editor Judith Jones recognized her talent, much like she did with Julia Child's celebration of French cuisine, and embraced Miss Lewis's honest Southern cooking with equal enthusiasm.
Miss Lewis's culinary approach and her book indeed reflect a bygone era. Today, an author might face criticism from editors or the public for suggesting, as she did, to "listen for quiet noises from the cake" as a sign of doneness, or for specifying "5 gallons of well water" in a recipe.
During our conversation, Miss Lewis shared a clever cooking tip with me: when making biscuits or recipes requiring baking powder or baking soda, they'd gauge the amount needed by what would fit on top of a dime or nickel when dipped into the tin. However, in her books, she embraces modern measurements like teaspoons and tablespoons.
Yet, much like the ongoing saga of my elusive cookbooks, the conclusion of this tale didn't unfold as expected. Nevertheless, with the recipe, there's some semblance of closure.
The corn pudding turned out delightful, but its texture was a bit unexpected, with the milk and eggs separating into soft curds and butter forming rivulets on the surface. While it tasted wonderful, I hesitated to share it without either giving it another attempt or adjusting the recipe. After some online research, I discovered that the folks at Food+Wine, along with Miss Lewis in a subsequent book, had reworked it into a summer corn pudding by adding flour for binding and substituting some of the milk with heavy cream.
Fortunately, all was not lost for me. I decided to blend the custard with honey, sugar, and a splash of tequila, churning it into a delicious ice cream that I'm saving to treat my Mexican friends when they return from their summer vacation.
Meanwhile, fresh corn being a precious commodity in Paris—where supermarkets were selling two shrink-wrapped ears for €3.15—I waited until the day of my local outdoor market. There, I found a trio of friendly vendors offering a variety of fruits and vegetables. Happily, I discovered fresh corn at a more reasonable price—two ears for €1.50—and brought home a few extra ears for good measure.
After linking to the Beekman Boys’ smoky corn chowder recipe from The Beekman1802 Heirloom Vegetable Cookbook on my Facebook page, a friend from my Chez Panisse days, now residing in Northern California, gave it her stamp of approval. Intrigued, I decided to give it a go.
The method was simple yet effective: roasting the corn and peppers in the oven, then using the spent cobs to create a flavorful broth, all seasoned with a hint of smoky chipotle powder. Although I couldn't find authentic poblanos in Paris, I substituted with a long red pepper from the market. Additionally, I opted for whole milk instead of the heavy cream the recipe suggested. Just a word of caution if you choose this substitution: be mindful not to overheat the soup unless you're also in the mood for a couple of pints of corn ice cream!
Corn Soup INGREDIENT :
- - 3 ears of fresh corn
- - 1 fresh pepper (such as Anaheim or poblano)
- - 2 tablespoons olive oil
- - 1 teaspoon salt
- - 3 1/2 cups (800ml) water
- - 3 tablespoons butter (salted or unsalted)
- - 1 small red onion, diced
- - 2 cloves garlic, minced
- - 1/4 teaspoon chipotle powder or smoked paprika
- - 1/2 cup (125ml) whole milk or heavy cream
- - Garnish: Chopped fresh basil, flat-leaf parsley, or chives