As a baker, I eagerly anticipate the arrival of summer. It's a season bursting with an abundance of delightful fruits like peaches, nectarines, cherries, and plums, all of which flood the markets. I make it a point to seek out the local producers, those who nurture and grow the produce they sell. Each year, at my favorite Parisian market, I eagerly await the arrival of one such vendor. They bring with them a cornucopia of Reine Claude and mirabelle plums, an array of cherry varieties, fragrant melons that tantalize the senses from yards away, luscious figs, and juicy apricots. It's a treasure trove of seasonal delights that I eagerly stock up on whenever I can.
Enhancing the joy of shopping were the charming individuals who manned the fruit stalls. Not only were they pleasing to behold, but they also had a knack for selecting slightly flawed cherries, labeling them as "ideal for clafoutis" (a more elegant term for baking), and offering them at a discounted rate. This year, there seems to have been a shift in personnel – alas – but the new faces continue the tradition of providing imperfect yet delectable fruits, sometimes even offering an excess at a bargain.
In recent weeks, they've been offering small crates of fresh apricots at €5 for 3 kilograms, roughly a dollar per pound. Luckily, I reside within walking distance of the market, so I immediately grabbed one on my first encounter, along with my other purchases, which I promptly turned into delicious apricot jam. If they ever produce a show called "Fruit Fanatics," I might just be the star of the premiere episode, considering how many times I returned to buy several more crates of fresh apricots. (And no, it wasn't just because of the attractive vendors.)
After filling over a dozen jars with apricot jam, I still found myself swimming in apricots, so I opted to whip up an apricot galette. When baking a rustic, free-form tart like this, it's crucial to have a plan for managing any excess fruit juices that might seep out, especially with apricots, as some varieties tend to be quite juicy.
During my time at Chez Panisse, we concocted a handy mixture affectionately dubbed "Moon Dust" by someone on the team. Being the playful soul that I am, I took the liberty to rename it "Lunar Lint." This magical blend comprised flour, almond meal, sugar, and crushed amaretti cookies.
Since it was Sunday in Paris, when most stores are shuttered, embarking on a quest for amaretti cookies wasn't an option. Truth be told, they're quite elusive even on regular days. I used to stock up on them and stash them away in my pantry, only to find myself indulging in impromptu snacking sessions, depleting my stash meant for "lunar lint."
And yes, I do have a recipe for homemade amaretti in Ready for Dessert. However, with the flurry of jam-making activities and the subsequent cleanup required after each batch, I simply couldn't afford the time for a full DIY endeavor.
The apricots I selected proved to be more reserved, sparing me from a deluge of juices during baking. Surprisingly, no one questioned the inclusion of frangipane. On the contrary, my guests adored the delicate yet flavorful almond cream nestled beneath the fruit, enhancing the interplay of flavors between the apricots and cherries. As the younger generation would say, it was a "sick combination" that garnered unanimous approval.
I'm not quite sold on that term either, so let's revert to my California upbringing and say the combination was "awesome," or as the French would put it, "chouette" (like an owl). Depending on your location, you can whip up this galette with various stone fruits or even figs, pears, or apples when they're in season. I don't really mind which fruits you choose, but I highly recommend giving it a try with the frangipane. One taste, and you'll undoubtedly agree that incorporating it is a wise decision.
Ingredients Summer Fruit Galette :
Normally apricots give up a lot of juice when baked, but these late-season ones didn't. Fruit varies in moisture but the nice thing about the layer of frangipane is that it keeps the tart dough crisp on the bottom, in case your fruit is juicy. You can use walnut or hazelnut flour in place of the almond flour. You can certainly use other fruits, such as sliced nectarines, peaches (peeled or unpeeled), plums, or figs. You'll need about 1 1/2 pounds (700g) of fruit. More important than precise numbers to follow, it's best to try to push the fruit as close together as possible, or if using sliced fruit, to overlap it as much as possible, because it'll cook down during baking. You can also make this without the frangipane but you may want to sprinkle the bottom of the tart dough with some crumbled cookies, nuts or flour, or toss the fruit in 1 to 2 teaspoons of cornstarch if the fruit is particularly juicy, although I prefer using frangipane. That's why I gave you the recipe. (And because my "Lunar "Lint" recipe makes enough for 12 to 18 tarts.) Update: A reader pointed out that ground almonds can sometimes be wanting in flavor, so I often add almond extract. The amount can vary, to taste, but since it's getting baked, you might want to err on the stronger side. (Although I know some people don't like that flavor when it's too strong.) You can also swap out raspberries or blueberries for the cherries, using them to fill in the spaces between the fruit. I add the cherries at the beginning, but if using raspberries or blueberries, you can add them during the last 15 minutes or so of baking. Just before baking the tart, I sprinkled mine with organic cane sugar, which you can see in the photo. It's a little coarser than granulated white sugar. I like it because it doesn't melt so easily, and I enjoy the crunchy crystals in the crust. But feel free to use either regular granulated sugar, if that's what you've got. Just be sure not to be too stingy with it; the crackly crust (to some of us) with lots of juicy fruit tucked underneath, is the best part!
Servings8 servings
For the galette dough
- 1 1/4cup (175g)all-purpose flour
- 2teaspoonssugar
- 1/4teaspoonsalt
- 7tablespoons (100g, 3 1/2 ounces)unsalted butter,cubed and chilled
- 3 1/2 to 4tablespoonsice water
For the frangipane
- 3/4cup (95g)almond flour
- 1/4cup (50g)sugar
- 2tablespoons (20g)all-purpose flour
- 2tablespoons (30g, 1 ounce)unsalted butter,at room temperature
- 1/4 to 1/2teaspoonpure almond extract
- 1 large egg, at room temperature
For the fruit galette
- 1 1/2pounds (700g)fresh apricots, halved and pitted, or quartered if large,(see headnote for other fruits that can be used)
- 18-20cherries,sweet or tart, pitted
- 1tablespoon (15g, 1/2 ounce)unsalted butter,melted
- 2tablespoonssugar (or organic cane sugar),see headnote
- strained apricot jam,, for glazing the tart
To make the dough
- To make the dough, mix together the flour, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl, or in the bowl of a stand mixer.
- Add the cubed butter and mix, using a pastry blender (or the paddle attachment if using a stand mixer), until the butter is in small, but still visible pieces, about the size of corn kernels.
- Add the 3 1/2 tablespoons of ice water and mix until the dough starts to come together. If it feels dry, add an additional 1/2 tablespoon of ice water. Form the dough into a disk with your hands, wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
To make the frangipane
- In a small bowl, mix together the almond flour, sugar, and all-purpose flour. Add the butter and almond extract, and mix in with a spatula until smooth. Mix in the egg.
To make the tart
- Preheat the oven to 375ºF (190ºC). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
- On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to a 14-inch (35cm) circle, turning it over and dusting lightly with flour, to keep it from sticking to the counter.
- Brush off any excess flour and transfer the dough to the prepared baking sheet. (At this point, you may want to chill the dough for a few minutes, as the frangipane may be a bit tricky to spread if the dough feels warm.)
- Smear the frangipane on the tart dough, leaving a 2-inch (5cm) rim around the edges. Place the apricots on the frangipane and put cherries in the spaces between the apricots. Fold the edges of the dough over the fruit to make a crust. After pleating and folding the rim, make sure there are no "gullies" in the pleats, for fruit juices to run out of.
- Brush the rim of the crust generously with melted butter then brush the remaining butter over the fruit. Sprinkle the rim with about 1 tablespoons of sugar. Then sprinkle another 1 tablespoon over the fruit. (If using fruits like nectarines and peaches, you can reduce the sugar to a few teaspoons.)
- Bake the tart until the crust is well-browned and the fruit is cooked through, about 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and let the tart cool for 5 to 10 minutes, then brush the top with apricot jam.
Notes :
Serving: Serve with a compatible ice cream, such as vanilla, crème fraîche or noyau ice cream. (The last two are in my books, The Perfect Scoop, and My Paris Kitchen, respectively), or another favorite flavor. A dollop of crème fraîche, sabayon, or softly whipped cream are other options. (Although often I like it just as it is.)Storage: The dough can be made up to two days ahead and refrigerated, or it can be frozen for up to two months. The tart is best enjoyed the same day it's made, but is okay the second day.