Boston Cream Pie holds a special place in my heart as one of my all-time favorite desserts. Back in elementary school, it was a staple in the cafeteria line, nestled among other comforting options like codfish sticks, boiled potatoes with parsley, and butter sandwiches on thick, Pepperidge Farm-style white bread. Each half-portion of this nostalgic treat came wrapped in a brown waxed bag, beckoning me to grab it alongside my lunchtime companions, peanut butter sandwiches.
I can still vividly recall the moment after finishing my lunch, eagerly plunging my fork into that golden sponge cake, revealing a luscious center filled with velvety vanilla custard. In a world seemingly dominated by milk chocolate, this dessert offered a delightful departure with its indulgent, dark chocolate glaze—a revelation to my young taste buds, introducing me to the exquisite complexity of bittersweet chocolate, a flavor I've cherished ever since.
We're all familiar with those who staunchly advocate for culinary traditions, insisting on the preservation of dishes in their original form. From classic recipes like Cacio e Pepe to Caesar Salad, there's a faction dedicated to authenticity. However, not everyone adheres to this doctrine. Take, for instance, the Boston Cream Pie purists who argue for its original rendition—sans chocolate glaze, simply adorned with a dusting of powdered sugar. To them, I offer my sincerest apologies for deviating from tradition.
But for me, the allure of Boston Cream Pie lies precisely in that rich, velvety chocolate glaze that adorned the version I cherished in my youth. It's an essential element of my fond memories, and I simply can't envision the dessert without it. So, while I respect tradition, I'm unapologetically partial to my chocolate-topped slice of nostalgia.
Growing up, Boston Cream Pie was a staple on our dessert table, but oddly enough, I never attempted to make one myself. It seemed out of place amidst the rise of the farm-to-table movement that swept through the U.S. during the 80s and 90s. Nostalgic American treats like this didn't quite align with the ethos of using locally-sourced, artisanal ingredients—unless, perhaps, it was crafted with bean-to-bar chocolate, pastured butter, repurposed parchment paper, and heritage flour.
The Boston Cream Pie I fondly recall was a golden, moist delight, its glaze boasting a delightful crackle as the fork pierced its surface. This effect was a result of the glazing process, allowing it to dry slightly before serving. It's akin to the allure of Black & White Cookies, where the sugary icing forms crunchy crevices upon biting into it. For us native New Englanders, the idea of creamy ganache might seem a tad too modern—preferring instead the comforting familiarity of traditional textures and flavors.
I decided to embark on a personal quest to recreate my own rendition of Boston Cream Pie, but alas, my attempts fell short of my nostalgic expectations. Despite tinkering with the sponge cake recipe I've relied on for years—handed down to me by the esteemed food and wine writer, Shirley Sarvis, from her book "Ready for Dessert"—I couldn't quite capture the essence of what I remembered.
Shirley embodied a refined elegance, the type of person you might envision donning white gloves and enjoying a subtle sip of sherry before dinner. Yet, beneath her poised exterior, she was a talented wine writer with a warm and welcoming demeanor, coupled with a formal education in home economics. I still remember the day she handed me a meticulously typed recipe on a piece of paper, her signature smile lighting up the room as I scanned its contents. When I questioned the addition of water to the cake, she simply replied, "For moisture, of course!"—a response that seemed perfectly logical at the time.
Using Shirley's cherished sponge cake recipe as my foundation, I embarked on crafting my own version of Boston Cream Pie. While the cake itself boasted a delightful moistness and airy texture, I couldn't help but notice the abundance of bowls and utensils required—a relic of a bygone era not quite suited for our modern, fast-paced lifestyles. With a desire to streamline the process and minimize the cleanup, I set out on a culinary exploration, searching for ways to simplify without sacrificing taste or quality.
Like many culinary enthusiasts, I draw inspiration from fellow cooks and bakers, constantly seeking to refine my craft. Despite my tenacity, after three attempts—equating to nine recipes due to the complexity of the Boston Cream Pie's three components—I found myself on the brink of conceding defeat in my quest to recreate this beloved classic. While I possess tried-and-true recipes for sponge cake, pastry cream, and ganache in my repertoire, I turned to Cook's Illustrated to guide me towards the culmination of my vision.
Recasting their recipe, I made adjustments to certain ingredients while retaining others intact, a process that allowed me to tailor the recipe to my preferences. However, credit must be given where it's due—Cook's Illustrated's meticulous research and testing laid the groundwork for my successful adaptation. After my fourth iteration, or perhaps more fittingly, my fourth cake or pie, I'm pleased to present my rendition of this timeless favorite.
Boston Cream Pie :
Prepare ahead for this recipe; the custard filling should be made the day before to allow it time to firm up in the refrigerator. Don't panic if the mixture deflates slightly when you add the hot milk to the whipped eggs; it's normal and won't affect the cake's rise in the oven.
If you're wondering about substitutes for corn syrup in the glaze, opt for similar textured liquid sweeteners like Golden syrup, glucose, rice or sorghum syrup. Honey isn't recommended due to its incompatible taste. Adjustments may be needed if you deviate from the recipe, such as adding more chocolate if the texture becomes too thin.
Looking to use up leftover egg whites? Check out dessert recipes that call for them.
For the custard filling:
- Warm the milk with vanilla and salt, then gradually add to a mixture of egg yolks, sugar, and flour.
- Cook the custard until thick, strain, and stir in butter and vanilla extract.
- Chill thoroughly in the refrigerator.
For the cake:
- Preheat oven and prepare cake pans.
- Whisk dry ingredients, warm milk, and butter, then gradually add to whipped eggs and sugar.
- Divide batter into pans and bake until golden brown and springy to touch. Let cool.
Assemble the cake:
- Place one cake layer on a plate and spread chilled custard filling over it.
- Top with the second cake layer and chill while preparing the glaze.
For the chocolate glaze:
- Warm cream, corn syrup, and chocolate until smooth.
- Pour over the cake and spread to the edges, letting it drip down the sides.
Refrigerate until firm before slicing, typically 2-3 hours.
Serving and storage:
- The cake can be made ahead and refrigerated for 1-2 days.
- Custard filling can be refrigerated for 2-3 days.
- Cakes can be made 1 day ahead, wrapped well, and stored at room temperature.
