COUSCOUS TRADITIONAL MOROCCAN : A CULINARY JOURNEY TO MOROCCO

Pineapples are a fruit that’s always in season, and their vibrant appearance can really brighten up the winter months, especially when you’ve had enough of apples and pears. I love enjoying fresh pineapple after a meal because it’s not only refreshing but also has a pleasant acidity that leaves me feeling good. While not local (unfortunately, as that would mean a tropical beach nearby!), pineapples are consistently available at markets in Paris. You can find the regular varieties, sometimes referred to as “Red Spanish” or “Cayenne” pineapples, though the latter might make spice-averse locals hesitate. There are also the smaller, slender Victoria pineapples, which are much sweeter but yield less edible flesh. In the United States, you can find Tahitian pineapples, which share similar characteristics.

I was reading "Baking Chez Moi," Dorie Greenspan’s comprehensive and delightfully readable book on French home baking. She points out that Parisians don’t bake the same way Americans do. In the U.S., baking is often a relaxing hobby; in France, it’s done out of necessity for a dessert. There’s no big fuss about it or much concern for appearance. People in France seem to accept that they can’t compete with the professional pastry shop on the corner, so they’re content to make something that will be fine for their guests. In my experience, French people always appreciate homemade desserts since many opt to visit the corner pâtisserie.

When you go to a dinner party in Paris, no one expects to find a spectacular homemade cake for dessert. If there is one, it was likely picked up from the local pastry shop, and there’s no shame in that. People often ask me how Parisians make macarons, baguettes, or croissants, and I tell them that almost no one makes these at home in Paris because you can buy high-quality versions just about anywhere. Much like charcuterie, they leave it to the experts. French home bakers typically stick to a few reliable, tried-and-true desserts, often passed down from their mothers. For instance, the most famous chocolate mousse recipe in France can be found on the back of the Nestlé chocolate baking bar package sold in supermarkets. 

            

            

I was once on a panel and suggested beforehand that we take questions from the audience. A French woman sitting next to me quickly dismissed the idea, saying, “Oh, no. No one will raise their hand. It reminds them of grade school when, if they were called on and got the answer wrong, they’d be reprimanded in front of everyone.”

No one wants to be reprimanded for a failed dessert either. And in today’s world, the quickest way to face criticism is by sharing something on social media. That’s where Dorie’s book comes in handy, offering well-tested recipes for a variety of desserts and sweets that people do make at home. These include casual cakes, cookies, and other treats, many of which can be prepared in compact Parisian kitchens.

This caramelized pineapple is one of those desserts that requires minimal effort and can be made ahead of time. Parisians are notoriously late for dinner, so it’s convenient to have a dessert that doesn’t need last-minute attention. I’ve experienced this firsthand—recently, we invited some friends for dinner, and they showed up a staggering 2 1/2 hours late. With this dish, you don’t have to worry about something temperamental roasting in the oven while you wait.

Dorie got the recipe from someone at her hair salon in Paris. In her book, she describes the challenge of getting precise measurements from him—he used vague finger measurements to indicate the amount of juice and had no idea how much jelly was in his recipe. He just improvised, guessing that it might be a jarful.

I always chuckle when people ask me, “What do you mean by a handful?” or “How much is a pinch?” because French cooks rarely follow recipes to the letter. They cook au pif, or “by the nose.” This recipe is a great example of that approach. You can change the type of jam or liquor to suit your taste. I found it a bit too sweet, so I recommend using a tart jam and adding a squeeze of fresh lime juice to balance the flavors.

When selecting a pineapple, ignore the advice that you can determine ripeness by easily plucking a leaf from the center. Instead, look for a pineapple that isn’t too green on the outside; you want one that’s mostly yellow. Pineapples don’t ripen significantly after being picked, so trust your nose—au pif—and take a sniff. If it smells sweet and has a strong, tropical fragrance, you’ve found a good one.

Spiced Caramelized Pineapple : 

Adapted from *Baking Chez Moi: Recipes from My Paris Home to Yours Anywhere* by Dorie Greenspan

You can serve the pineapple quarters whole, but I prefer to dice the pineapple and serve the caramelized pieces with some of the thick caramel sauce, accompanied by toasted coconut ice cream (a recipe from *The Perfect Scoop*). Vanilla ice cream is also a great choice. Leftover pineapple can be chopped and added to a fruit salad. Keep in mind that even with the lime juice, this dish is quite sweet, so pairing it with something that can counterbalance the sweetness is ideal. You can always add a bit more lime juice after cooking if you find it too sweet. Dorie suggests using apple jelly, apricot jam, or orange marmalade, but I recommend going for the tartest option—apricot or bitter orange marmalade. The original recipe also mentions that hot pepper jelly could be a good alternative, which I plan to try next time. Since the liquid reduces significantly, there’s no need to use expensive, homemade jam; store-bought works just as well. If you’re avoiding alcohol, substitute with an additional 1/2 cup (125ml) of orange juice and a generous squeeze of lime juice.

 Ingredients:

• - 1 ripe pineapple, peeled, quartered, and cored
• - 1/2 cup (125ml) fresh orange juice
• - Juice of one lime
• - 1/2 cup (125ml) liquor (choose from rum, Cognac, brandy, whiskey, or bourbon)
• - 1 cup (250g, 8 ounces) apricot jam or bitter orange marmalade
• - Optional: 1 teaspoon powdered vanilla bean or 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
• - 6 allspice berries, slightly crushed (or another spice such as a couple of cinnamon sticks, crushed cardamom seeds, or a few star anise)

Instructions:

• 1. Preheat your oven to 300ºF (150ºC).
• 2. Place the pineapple quarters in a baking dish just large enough to fit them, with enough space for basting and turning them during cooking.
• 3. In a bowl, combine the orange juice, lime juice, liquor, jam, vanilla (if using), and allspice (or your chosen spices).
• 4. Pour this mixture over the pineapple and roast in the oven for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, turning the pineapple every 20 minutes and basting with the juices. The cooking time may vary depending on the ripeness and juiciness of the pineapple, so check frequently and use your judgment to determine when it’s done.

 Notes:

- Serving: Serve the pineapple warm or at room temperature. It pairs well with vanilla ice cream or any other favorite flavor. It can also be mixed into a fruit salad or used creatively in other dishes.

- Storage:Store the caramelized pineapple in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. It can be reheated in the oven, covered to maintain juiciness, if desired.

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